Tuesday, September 10, 2019

Day 24 Lightning Ridge to Walgett 78 km

I was up early not really looking forward to another day of cycling in heavy wind. Fortunately although still a headwind it was less powerful than the previous 3 days.

After muesli and coffee I was on the road shortly after 6:30 am, happy to leave Lightning Ridge. Apparently it is a very popular spot to visit but I can't understand why. Yes it has black opals and some artesian bore baths but it has not much else. As I heard some one else comment today, an hour there is more than enough.

The ride from LR is probably the least interesting part of the trip so far. There is a sameness to drought stricken scrub all the way to Walgett. I made good time despite the headwind and arrived in town at lunchtime.

I cruised down the main street looking for a cafe that was recently featured on the ABC. I managed to fail to spot it on the other of the road and instead saw Cafe 64 just around the corner. I headed in there and ordered some toasted sandwiches. Cafe 64 appears to be a social enterprise providing skills and employment to local Indigenous and disadvantaged people. It also has a collection of local indigenous art.

After that a quick visit to the IGA and then I the spotted cafe I originally intended the visit. The "Stone's  Throw" got publicity as it was opened at the height of the drought and has been touted as bringing life to the town. I did order a pot of tea and a muffin which were excellent but I really wonder whether the claims made for the cafe are valid. It was more inner suburban capital city than local country cafe. I'm sure it is popular with well off Crusties passing through but to be honest I think Cafe 64 is doing more for the town.

Walgett was the focus of our own civil rights battle in the 1960s. Charlie Perkins and the Freedom Riders came here and had a difficult time. That many of the shops in town have security shutters even now suggests there are still issues to be resolved.

Just out of town there is a council run "free camp" with toilets, BBQ s and shade shelters. I decided I would stop here for the night along 15 or more caravans and camper vans.
Walgett Free Camp

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